Traditional Dutch Sweet Cakes (Koekje) | Sleepy Hollow
Traditional Dutch ‘Sweet Cakes’
Throughout history, the terms cookies and cakes have been used interchangeably. It wasn’t until the last two centuries that the terms have became more distinct. Cake now refers to a larger baked good that typically rises evenly, resulting in a lighter, fluffier texture, while cookies are smaller, flatter, firmer, and often baked until crispy or chewy.
Cultural influences and evolving baking techniques have shaped cookies and cakes as distinct treats and like any deep dive into food history, a number of rabbit holes can be explored. Fortunately in the context of this recipe, the direct impact the Dutch had on both the food and the terms used are clear.
Quote It.
“There was the doughty doughnut, the tender oly koek, and the crisp and crumbling cruller; sweet cakes and short cakes, ginger cakes and honey cakes, and the whole family of cakes. ”
-The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, Washington Irving
Koekje (Cookie)= “Little Cake”
When the Dutch settled in the 17th century in New Netherland—which now includes areas like New York (where Sleepy Hollow is located), New Jersey, Connecticut, and Pennsylvania—they brought with them foods like koekje, meaning “little cake.” Over time, koekje was adapted into American English as cookie. However, when The Legend of Sleepy Hollow was written in 1820, the term cookie had only appeared in the first American cookbook, American Cookery, 25 years earlier. Given the Dutch influence on the region and the proximity of the story to this time period, it’s likely that the terms were still used somewhat interchangeably.
‘Sweet’ Cakes: How Common was Sugar in Colonial America?
In general, when baking recipes from Colonial America, you’ll notice that sugar was used, but typically in moderation—mostly to “season” a dish. While sugar production in America began in the mid-18th century, with the first sugar mill being built by the Mississippi River in 1758, the first successful sugar plantation didn’t emerge until 1841 in Louisiana.
However, when it comes to the Dutch settlers, historical documents indicate they had easier access to sugar. In the 1600s, when the Dutch settled in America, Holland was a wealthy country and a center for sugar refining. As a result, the Dutch in America had access to a variety of sugars, including white refined sugar loaves, soft brown sugar, and molasses.
By the early 1800s, sugar was more commonly used in baked goods, and Dutch descendants in New Netherland were known for their love of sweet treats. Many candied fruit recipes recorded in the late 1700s show a generous use of sugar!
With this in mind, I’m using a more generous amount of sugar compared to the lighter dusting typically seen in cruller, doughnut, and oly koek recipes.
Sweet Cakes | Sleepy Hollow
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 cups white sugar
- 3 cups plain flour
- 1/3 cup butter
- 1 large egg room temperature
- 1 tsp baking soda
- 1/4 cup cream
- 1/4 cup milk
Instructions
- Begin by creaming together the butter and sugar before adding in the eggs, cream and milk. Finally, add in the self-raising flour. Roll into a log, chill in the fridge for half an hour.
- Preheat oven to 320F/160C.
- Either roll and slice into rectangular cookies or slice the roll to create circles. Spread on a cookie tray and sprinkle with white sugar. Bake for ~10 minutes until golden.
Video
References
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- Davidson, Alan., et al. The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford University Press, 2014.
- Mescher, Virginia. HOW SWEET IT IS!” A HISTORY OF SUGAR and SUGAR REFINING IN THE UNITED STATES INCLUDING A GLOSSARY OF SWEETENERS. 2005.
- Oliver, S. Food in Colonial and Federal America. Bloomsbury Academic, 2005.
- Rose, P. G. The Sensible Cook: Dutch Foodways in the Old and New World. Syracuse University Press, 1989.
- Smith, Andrew F. The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink. 2nd ed., Oxford University Press, 2009.